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How many of our members are aware that Jaguar, then called Swallow started out building sidecars for motorcycles. One the most published photos of William Lyons in his youth is of him sitting on his Harley Davidson motorcycle.

Thursday march 7th at 7PM we meet again at Threadgill's on North Lamar for a brief meeting and dinner. We will discuss upcoming plans for the 4club meet in Salado on April 20-21st.

Spring weather will soon arrive. Martha Davis and Ron Butler are finalizing a spring tour to Fredricksburg on March 16th. The Bluebonnets should be in full bloom and the drive alone is some of the loveliest scenery Texas has to offer.

March 22-23rd in Kansas City is the Annual General Meeting of the JCNA. I am planning to attend. Anyone with concerns on issues with our club at any level can contact me anytime.

As the weather begins to warm there are a couple places we can show off our Jaguars or other collectable car. A group meets on Saturday 6:30-9PM in the Albertsons parking lot at the "Y" in Oak Hill. Another group for those of us who live North, meet in Round Rock at KBob's parking lot at I35 and Hwy79 6:30-? Call Me if anyone is interested in attending as a group as these tend to be family oriented and both places have numerous inexpensive places to eat.

We hope to see you soon at one of our upcoming events.

Jeff Snyder

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Long-Term Engine Storage
Reprinted from the JAGazette, Bits And Bites
By Jerry Nuijen
San Francisco Bay Area  Jaguar Assoc. Group (JAG)

   Just about everybody knows that when you store an engine for a long time (more than 6 months) you should take the plugs out and squirt a little oil down the hole.  The engine should be turned periodically (every 6 months is good) and the oil reapplied.  But there are a lot of other parts that will lose their lubrication over time and succumb to Demon Rust and corrosion.  What about the cams, lifters, valve guides, timing chain(s), crank, piston pins and oil pump?
   Assuming the engine is out of the car it only takes a little extra time to remove the oil pan and cam covers and give all these parts a squirt of protective oil too.  I use synthetic oil.  I have no hard evidence, but it seems to stick to surfaces better and evaporate more slowly.  Put the engine on a stand that will allow you to turn it upside down and pour a little oil into the pump pickup.  A couple of dozen complete rotations should put some new oil into the galleys.  Give the rear main and front seal a shot too.  Turn the water pump, alternator and air pump, if so equipped  Air pumps tend to rust inside.  A fine mist of oil through the inlet might save you $100. When it comes time to reactivate the engine.  As a final step, cover the engine as tightly as possible with plastic.  BIG garbage bags work nicely.  This will slow down the evaporation of the oil and keep moisture out.  I know that engine will only be out until next summer when the complete restoration of the body is finished.  But 6 years down the road you'll be happy you spent a few extra hours preserving it because someday it will run again.  Won't it?

Spotted this in the Feb.2002 copy of Skinned Knuckles Magazine.
Brennam Texas, March 8-10 , South Central Swap Meet, Cars & Parts.  Tractor Show, Arts and Crafts. Car Show Saturday.  Sponsored by Gulf Coast Regtion AACA. Free adm & parking.  Info. Chuck Crain 281-544-2192 days,979-357-2701 evenings. e-mail perfect@industryinet.com.
Merl Reed
This could be your car here in the pages of the JCOA newsletter. Just email pictures with description to:
Bbott@ausbcomp.com
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Do You Own an XJ Series Saloon?
This will be of interest to you
Courtsey of JagMag by Dan Dwyer

Here are some quick remarks on some of the more common repair issues and questions.  Most of these items pertain to the Series I-II-III XJ Saloons but you XJ-S owners may find some useful tips, too.
Wipers don't self-park:  The fault here almost always lies with the column mounted control switch and not the "park switch: on the wiper motor. (Ser. III)
Clunk, rattle, crunch noise over bumps:  The upper bushings for the front shocks are almost always disintegrated on these cars, allowing the shock to rattle against the inner fender well.  New replacement bushings are available separately and many owners have successfully used generic bushings from a local parts supply.  Also check the braces, which run diagonally from the cowl to the finders wings).  Make sure they are tight, very tight.  Anything less will allow them to make noise as the body flexes.
Power door locks inoperative or slow working:  In about 80% of the cases the recalcitrant locks can be brought back to lice by removing the door trims and thoroughly lubricating all the linkages and sliding points.  Use an aerosol lubricant, silicone spray works well.  (Series II & III)
Vibration felt when brakes applied:  This is usually caused by warped brake rotors.  Rotors can often be taken to a machine shop and be resurfaced but most owners replace them with new ones.  The new ones are not too expensive and, since the job is labor-intensive., it makes sense to just install new ones.
Speedometer inoperative or erratic:  In about mid-1982 or so (for North American market cars, later for rest-of-world_ Jaguar switched from a cable-operated instrument to an electric one.  A transmission-mounted transducer produces a signal that is sent to the speedometer.  This transducer is the most common culprit when your speedo acts up or just plain quits.  Of course the connections should be checked first. (Series III)
Cruise control does not work:  There are many possibilities here but often the fix is easy.  First, check the 2 amp fuse (#12 fuse, main fuse box).  Next check the vacuum bellows.  This often leaks at the edges and can be cleaned and resealed with silicone sealer.  Do not forget to check the vacuum supply to the bellows. 

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The hose may have perished with age. (Series III)
Engine will not crank:  Assuming the battery is good, here are a couple of quick checks.  Examine the battery cables/terminals for clean and tightness.  Ditto for the two firewall-mounted junction posts.  Also try tapping the starter relay (firewall mount silver, oblong).  If tapping the relay brings the starter back to life then replace the relay or disassemble it and clean the contacts.
Power antenna won't retract all the way:  Examine the mast for slight bends and gentle reshape by hand, if needed.  Thoroughly clean the mast and lubricate with an aerosol lube (silicone, graphite, etc).  In nearly all cases this is all that's required. (Series II & III)
What is normal engine temperature?  Normal operating temperature is 88C-90C.  This is the beginning of the green band on the temperature gauge (Series III 6-cylinder cars).  If the cooling system is in good order you should have no problem staying at the 88C-90C  range unless you are in extreme conditions, I.e.: bumper to bumper traffic and/or ambient temps of 90-100F degrees.  The auxiliary electric fan will come on at about 96C.  In high ambient temps I would say that anything over 100C is cause for concern.  In cooler temps anything over 90C merits investigation
Identification of sensors on the water rail:  On the fuel injected 6-cylinder cars, here's what the different sensors are and what they do, starting from the front position.  First is the Thermo-time Switch.  This is a heated switch.  It controls the cold start injector.  This switch operates only when the starter is engaged and only when the engine is cold.  Next is the sending unit for the dashboard mounted temperature gauge.  Next is the fuel injection coolant temp sensor, which sends a signal to the boot-mounted ECU (Electronic Control Unit).  This sensor is an important part of the fuel metering system.  Rearmost is the temperature switch for the air injection pump and the canister purge system.  On some non-North American and/or Series II cars this sender is replaced by a vacuum switch for the ERG-equipped cars.
Identification of firewall relays:  On 6-cylinder fuel injected cars, starting from the right (viewed from driver's seat) you have:  The all-red Diode Pack.  This is not actually a relay.  It has several diodes inside and directs the flow of voltage in the fuel
Continued on Page 11
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The Calendar for the year 2002 was planned as follows:

Monthly Socials will be held on the first Thursdays of the month unless it is changed for scheduling.

March 17, Spring drive

April 19 - 21 four club meet at Salado

May Garage tour date to be determined

May  Jaguar display for Women's Symphony League

May 2 through Mother's day.

June 23, Progressive dinner

July 11, Monthly Social

July, date to be set, JCOA Birthday Party
August Vacation

September 15, Tech Session, Concours prep

October 12, Concours

November 17, Turkey Rally

December 14, Christmas Party
     
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APPLICATION INFORMATION:

Membership fee for remainder of the 2001      calendar year is $ 40. 00 This includes membership in the Jaguar Club of Austin as well as our national affiliate, Jaguar Club of North America (JCNA)

RETURN MEMBERSHIP APPLICATION TO:

Jaguar Club of Austin
                    c/o Frank O. Behrman
                  4315 Far West Boulevard
Austin, TX.  78731-2841

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